

I really like your steel blackening stuff. I've use several
wipe-on cold blueing products and gotten good results with
them, but sometimes it's desirable to immerse a part rather
than wipe it. If you dunk a part in the wipe-on stuff, the
solution gets contaminated very quickly.
This is a piece of shop-made tooling that I tried the Caswell
blackening stuff on. I wanted to blacken rather than plate
because I didn't want to alter the dimensions. It's a close
replica of a Logan lathe spindle, used to hold lathe chucks
on a rotary table. The round part engages the center hole
in the rotary with a very close fit. A bolt secures it from
beneath the rotary. The color came out very even, nice and
dark, and it got right down into the roots of the threads
and even into the internal hole. That would be hard to do
with the wipe-on stuff!
A guy needed a special M14x1 mm metric bolt for an antique
firearm he's restoring. That's an odd size he couldn't find
anywhere. I offered to make one for him.
Since it was for a firearm, I thought a black finish would
be neat. I used your black oxide
finish on it. He was delighted! - Don Foreman

The hex head fits a
16 mm socket. The parts are much blacker than they appear
in the photo; so black that detail didn't show so I lightened
the photo considerably to show detail.
I used honed HSS toolbits for finish on the work,
then a wash in an alkline degreaser and then
a dunk in Caswell's Black Oxide. I get consistently
and significantly better results with Caswell's blackener
than I get with the various soups I've tried from Brownell's
(gunsmith supply house) and Birchwood Casey.

Attached are two photos a cylinder for a model
radial engine that was
coated with
your black oxide product. As you can see, the results were
fantastic! John A. Collier
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